How I upped my skincare routine after I turned 60

For many years, I used only pure and natural products on my skin, in keeping with my organic lifestyle. I loved the fact that I was eschewing chemicals, not only in my diet, but in my beauty routine as well.

I thought that my skin was holding up rather well, but then two things happened.

I turned sixty and I went on a Visia machine.

I found sixty to be a big turning point for my skin

It was as if the ageing button had been put in fast forward mode, seemingly overnight.

And if you’re wondering what on earth a Visia machine is, I can tell you it’s not for the faint hearted. I didn’t even know it existed until, one day, while at the Harley Street Skin Clinic, they decided it was time I had my skin properly analysed. The Visia is not unlike a giant microscope that examines, in great and forensic detail, what’s happening underneath your skin.

It looks at skin texture, pores, congestion, bacteria, sun damage and collagen breakdown.

After a childhood baking in the African sun, I felt somewhat nervous about having my skin examined in such detail.

Unsurprisingly, they found considerable sun damage and UV spots

However, I was not expecting for them to also find an embarrassing amount of bacteria (why??) and wrinkles. Lots of wrinkles. My pores were apparently on the large side and the texture was not nearly as smooth as it could be. I was shocked. Don’t worry, they said, we’ve seen a lot worse. That only made me feel marginally better!

After years of people telling me how good my skin was, I had now got a reality check. I learned the hard truth of what I could expect to happen to my skin in the not-so-distant future.

What do I do, I wailed? The answer, I was told, was to start using active ingredients that target the specifics of ageing skin.

This was a game changing moment for me

Up until then, I’d loved using my organic skincare products, but this would have to change. Vanity dictated that I was going to have to let some chemicals into my life. But I was determined to find products that had the best of both worlds. Active ingredients with not too many chemicals, as well as some natural elements as well. A compromise in other words, as I was not prepared to use any old toxic combination on my skin. And so, my search began.

I began to work out which active ingredients I most needed and learned which issues I needed to target.

PIGMENTATION

There are very few people who get to midlife without some pigmentation. And I can tell you from personal experience that, with every passing year, it gets worse. All that youthful, carefree sunbathing comes back to haunt to us. As we age, pigmentation rises closer to the surface, while at the same time our skin begins to get a little thinner, making it a lot more visible. We start to get age spots and brown patches appear.

It leaves us with an uneven skin tone which has a huge impact on the appearance of our skin. Our skin appears dull and lacklustre which is very ageing.

There are quite a few products that help to contain it, but it’s important to manage expectations. Only a peel will help get rid of pigmentation fully, but this will also leave your skin more vulnerable. You will need to be smothered in sunblock every time you leave the house and even then, will have to be very careful to avoid any sun at all.

There are, however, products to help fade the pigmentation and stop it getting worse.

Look for products that contain Vitamin C

It helps to brighten the skin. One of the brands that I’ve fallen in love with is called ARK. It’s that perfect combo of science meeting the natural world. They have a range for the 50+ age group called Age Defy, and all these products contain Vitamin C. It consists of a cleanser, day moisturiser and a superb night cream.

They also have the most incredible serums and one of them is specially designed to help tackle pigmentation. It’s called Radiance and is a favourite of mine.

ARK SKINCARE

And then there is new brand DoSe, which I cannot recommend highly enough. Their products are packed full of active ingredients and are incredibly affordable.

They have a wonderful Vitamin C Serum which is protective, brightening and super hydrating.

They also have a product to specifically target pigmentation called Alpha Arbutin & Kojic Acid Serum. I’ve had a good result with this.

DoSe

Alpha Arbutin & Kojic Acid 

C-Deep Vitamin C Serum 

ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS

We all need an AHA in our lives. These are a gentle way of exfoliating our skin. Gone are the days of a rough physical exfoliator that can damage the skin. Something that I, regrettably, did rather a lot of.

AHA’s leave your skin soft, help to unclog pores and can also lessen pigmentation. Any products applied afterwards will absorb better and be more effective.

Some AHA’s are hard to tolerate

The smaller the molecule of the acid (as in Glycolic Acid), the more likely it is to create a reaction in some people. I personally love Glycolic Acid and can tolerate it, but many people can’t. You must be especially careful if you suffer from rosacea.

Fortunately, there’s a gold standard AHA that is non-irritating and can be safely used even by people with rosacea.

It’s called Azelaic Acid and has a calming effect on irritated or red skin. It helps to improve the appearance of uneven skin and helps to diminish blemishes. It even has some retinol type properties that help with cell turnover and is great for ageing skin. This is perfect for everyone, even those with the most sensitive skin. I would recommend doing a test first.

DoSe do a very good and well-priced version:

Azelaic Acid

RETINOLS

There’s no doubt that retinol is one of the best products there is to combat ageing in the skin.  It protects against the effects of ageing, the appearance of lines and an uneven skin tone, while also helping to smooth any surface irregularities. But, and this is a big but, it can be incredibly hard to tolerate.

I tried retinol on and off for years and had such a bad reaction that I eventually gave up. My skin never got used to it and at one stage, started flaking uncontrollably for months. I’d been using a prescription retinol and I now know that it was way too strong for me.

I found that when I started using non-prescription versions, I was able to tolerate it.

It’s very important that you start slowly with a retinol

I would start with a mild version and only use once a week for a week or so. Then slowly build up to two or three times a week. You should only use a small amount for the entire face and be sure to avoid the eye area.

The one that I like is by DoSe because I can tolerate it.

It’s called Granctive Retinoid 5% Serum and is the next generation retinol-alternative. It’s specially designed to be non-irritating.

It also contains Ergothioneine (an incredible ingredient with multiple benefits) as well as Hyaluronic Acid. This combo protects the skin from oxidative stress, evens out skin tone, hydrates and improves skin clarity.

I’ve been using non-prescription retinols for a few years now and my skin easily tolerates this one.

Granactive Retinoid 5% Serum 

Remember that retinols make your skin more sensitive to the sun so it’s very important that you wear an SPF every day while using them.

Retinol alternatives for midlife skin

If you are too sensitive to try a retinol or are concerned about sun sensitivity during the summer months, there’s a wonderful natural alternative.

It’s called Bakuchiol and is what I use in the summer months. I prefer to use my retinol in the winter.

It increases collagen, helps cell turnover and softens lines and wrinkles, very much like a retinol. It has the added benefit of calming redness and reducing pigmentation.

I love the DoSe version.

Super Bakuchiol Serum 

There’s also another very handy version by skin guru Marie Reynolds. All her products are magical and this one is a super charger. You just add a few drops of her Bakuchiol to whatever your night time product is.

Bakuchiol Complex Super Charger 

PROTECTION

There’s no point in tackling pigmentation and then putting your face in the sun and building up more of it.

Even though the sun is precious and full of benefits, sunbathing will age your skin faster than anything. I’m of the belief that it’s best to protect your face and expose other parts of your body to generate some Vitamin D. However, be sure not to do that at the hottest time of the day.

Hands down the best sun protection products I’ve come across are by EVY.

It’s a light mousse and easy to apply. The best part is that it remains in place for 6 hours no matter if you sweat or swim. This is great if you have an active day running around in the hot sun or when at the beach, where the sand makes re-applying tricky.

Most SPF products only last a short time and need to be constantly reapplied which isn’t always practical.

The other great thing about EVY is that it doesn’t go off. If you have some left after the summer, it will be just as potent the next summer or the one after that. Sun protection products usually degrade once opened and shouldn’t be used the next year.

 EVY Daily Defence SPF 50

In the winter, I’ll use something lighter. A gentle SPF is all that’s needed.

One of my favourite products for this is by ARK. It’s a multi-purpose product that is a primer, moisturiser and a 30 SPF. I use this all the time when I’m filming, as makeup sits very nicely on it.

ARK Skin Protector SPF 30 Primer 

MY OTHER SKINCARE ESSENTIALS

Restore by Marie Reynolds London 

This is the best kept secret in town. All the beauty editors love it and it’s nothing short of magical.

It’s a mask that feeds your face. It has healing properties and if you have a bruise, it will help it disappear quickly. It leaves your skin super soft with a velvety texture. It comes in a large pot that lasts for ages. I use it once or twice a week and always before filming or a photo shoot.

Ergothioneine Serum by DoSe 

I only recently discovered this unusual sounding product but am a big fan. It’s an amino acid derived from mushrooms and is a very potent antioxidant. It has one of the widest range of benefits of any single skincare ingredient.

It’s particularly good for ageing skin as it improves skin turnover and is a very effective collagen enhancer. It also protects against pollution and oxidative stress amongst many other things. I always wear a serum under my daily moisturiser or SPF.

Peptide Rescue Serum by DoSe

Peptides are one of the most effective ingredients for a mature skin so it’s good to go for products that contain them. This one also contains neurophroline which is brilliant for stressed skin. And who isn’t stressed?

Stress is very bad for skin because cortisol (the stress hormone) is released all through the body when we’re stressed, including the skin, where it causes havoc. Neurophroline breaks down the cortisol production in our skin and has a soothing effect. This helps to minimise collagen damage and inflammation.